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« Is 'biological' the new 'organic'? | Main | Garden Rant Interview: Nurseryman John Peter Thompson »

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The Galerucella beetle is a host-specific biological control which has been released in New England and upstate New York and shows some promise. Biological Control of Purple Loosestrife is a blog by a field biologist, Katie Mosher-Smith, experimenting with this control. The link is in my blogroll on the sidebar of my blog, or you can search for it on blogspot.

First, congratulations for your recognition and efforts. Loosestrife isn't a plant we're worrying about in the South yet, but it may become that.

Definitely take a look at Xris's URL above on biological controls.

Unless the biological controls are applicable, definitely experiment with different concentrations of roundup to find the one that kills the plants before using it on a larger scale.

Unfortunately loosestrife seems to flower rather early, and that's unfortunate because it means a lot of other plants are affected by spraying. I don't know how long it takes loosestrife to make seeds but timing is a consideration too in the use of a broad-spectrum herbicide.

Here's an example, and I just happen to be lucky. I've been eradicating Microstegium vimineum, a truly evil grass that is taking over shady ecosystems. This is my fourth year. It just happens to flower in late August/early September when most natives have gone dormant. That's been fortunate for me, in using roundup, since there are few enough natives that I can be careful where they co-exist. (At this point I've so reduced the grass that I'm now handpicking it - from 20 acres! This year I start at the end of July. :-) )

Also, how long do the loosestrife seeds remain viable in the soil? With Microstegium, it's 5-7 years, which means it has been a long term project that couldn't skip a year.

Sad that you have had to resort to chemical warfare, especially following Amy's post on organicism. The judicious and of course tempered use of herbicides may be what is required, as you have discovered. Please follow the research of others (thank the graces for the internet) and maybe you won't have to napalm your beautiful pond.

Our own scourge is poison ivy. Specifically, up to 3" thick vines climbing a good percentage of the forested part of the property...makes me yearn for my own Robert Duvall moment, quite frankly...instead of chemicals, though, I wield an axe and a pick when I have the time. Unlike your loosestrife, however, this is slow-growing stuff that I can hopefully get in hand before my kid starts climbing trees on her own.

About those ten thousand government-sponsored sites that recommend using Monsanto's Roundup, it's worth exploring sometime just how many invasive species councils have Monsanto representatives on them and/or receive funding from Monsanto. I've seen references to their being heavily involved in the anti-invasives movement but don't can't cite the specifics (though you notice that doesn't stop me from commenting!)

One of the inactive ingredients in Roundup (probably the surfactant) appears to kill frogs and tadpoles, so it's very difficult to use safely in a wetland. A badly-designed study last year proved that high levels of Roundup kill frogs (surprise, surprise), but the study was criticized for its design. Evidently there is another glyphosphate formulation, called Rodeo, minus the surfactants, designed for use in wetlands. http://www.dnr.state.md.us/wildlife/phrag.asp ... but I haven't been able to discover if it is available to just folks, or only to professionals.

I've never used a propane torch for weeds, but the "flames" metaphor got me thinking. Fire has often been used as a way of clearing ground. Would it be possible to blast one plant, or a stand of loosestrife, at a time -- cut the stalks off at the ground, then point the torch at the root?

It must be a tough, tough plant if you can't pickaxe it, Michele. Keep trying, though -- even if you can only reduce its numbers, at least it's not taking over.


Here's how to use RU with no overspray...Cut loosestrife off about a 8" to 12" above the ground. Take an old 1" or slightly smaller paintbrush, dip the brush into a small container filled with RU, and paint the cut with the plant with the stuff.

Leaving a stump means if you have to re-treat the offending plant, you just cut it back again to expose a fresh cut.

Works like a charm, and there's no overspray. Just FYI, please be aware that RU has a temperature range at which it is most effective. If it's below 50 degrees, or above 80..it will work but very slowly.

I love RU. Used judiciously, it's a wonderful tool.

Best of luck.

April, I was hoping somebody smart would write in and tell me how to use my bottle of RoundUp without killing frogs or flag iris. Many thanks. I will give it a whorl.

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